In May 2013, Adam Ondra drilled a few very hard projects in the "Flatanger cave". In August 2013, it was time to get back to Norway and to start working them. It was our 4th long trip to far Norway during the last year. Adam chose one 55m long one, all the time in the overhang, big part of it in the 100% roof, including the crux. It seemed to be as hard as Change, the world´s first 9b+, which he established here in October 2012.
Our "media aim", during this trip, was not to film anything new in the cave, as we still have hands full of the work with the movie CHANGE and there is no space to follow similar process on another route. And especially because Change has much stronger story and colorful background for a great adventurous movie. More here: WWW.CHANGE-MOVIE.COM
Anyway, one afternoon, as the camera was in the cave, (to do one last small "landscape shoot" for Change movie), I could not resist to make a few "ground shots" of Adam in the new project. There was no intention of making anything out of this, as it seemed, that the ascent is way too far and will happen during one of our next trips to this magic country...
I left Flatanger one week before Adam, to visit other beautiful norwegian wild areas. On the way back to the Czech republic 2 days ago, I got the message, that the project is done. Wow... It was fast... Adam named it MOVE and graded it 9b/+.
It was a bit disappointing for him, he expected it to happen much later. But he found painful, but better knee rest position, temperatures went down and he felt superstrong that day. So it can not be harder than Change, he said, and did not go for the grade of 9b+.
I returned from Norway yesterday, and today I quickly edited this small video, to give you a glimpse, of how this new nordic climbing pearl looks like... :-)
So, after 10 months of work of Adam Ondra, Norway has already 3 routes in the 9b range. Change 9b+, Move 9b/+, Iron Courtain 9b. What is going to be next? I am sure this is still just the beginning ;-)
DOCUMENTARY ABOUT THE BACKGROUND OF THE UPCOMING MOVIE CHANGE
"October 4th 2012, Flatanger, Norway. After incredible 3-month battle, Adam Ondra makes the first ascent of the new world´s hardest route. Adam names it Change and suggests the magic grade of 9b+. The limit of human´s possibilities has been shifted and the long adventurous trip of a few friends to the northern Europe slowly comes to the end..."
A slew of Liberty Mountain employees headed out to the canyon after work for an even session on the rocks. The evening was spent climbing the routes in The Waterfront area of Little Cottonwood Canyon. The featured route on this video is called Disco Duck and is climbed by Sam Perkins.