We eloped to Santa Cruz, California, where I was born, to have our first baby this past winter. It also happen to be a super fun winter of waves, and our sweet little boy was just getting used to being strapped to Sophie's chest. This allowed her to film while he slept or breastfed. It was pretty miraculous. I am riding a 5'5 Gravy model, Channel Island surfboard. The flat rocker and pin tail made it super fast and fun to draw lines on the semi-mushy, but pushy rights. Alex Knost came up one day calling it cutback camp out there, and that was pretty much the story all winter.
The waves weren't happening in Hawaii in the spring of 2005, so to pass the flat-ocean time, we came up with an idea to film a pig hunt. My friend and co-creator of this project, Keo, became the stalker with the bow and arrow when we realized that hunting a human would be quite a bit easier to capture on film than spearing a wild boar.
The lovely talent here, Ghizlane Aurouch - aka. the Rizzle - served as the muse for this little scene, which we incorported into the terribly classy montauk massacre surf film. The cut-away, in-water shots are of Trip Patterson surfing miniature Rocky Point. The music is Mr. Bungle's cover of "Sweet Chariot," and the horror music is from the Friday the 13th score, illegally downloaded from the internet. The Hawaii surf section still needs to be filmed. Hopefully this winter;>