1. Vielleicht DIE Linie in Kochel, nach 40 Tagen Arbeit diesen Oktober von Ralf erstbegangen. Über 40 Meter Kletterstrecke, Löcher wie in Céüse, Luft unterm Hintern wie in Céüse, Sprünge wie in Céüse, aber natürlich schönere Buchen. Über Nor-a-line (8b/8b+), die im oberen Drittel eine guten Rastpunkt beinhaltet, direkt hinein in die Crux von Black Flag, ein 7C Boulder mit weiten Zügen, der direkt von einem 7B mit kleinen Leisten und einem Sprung gefolgt wird. Danach dann pures Plaisir und ganz zum Ende noch ein Eleminator-Zug. Glückwunsch und auf weitere spektakuläre Linien im zweiten Stock dieser abgefahrenen Wand!

    Probably one of the best lines in Kochel that Ralf could send after 40 days of work in October 2016. More than 40m to climb, pockets like in Céüse, spacy like in Céüse, jumps like in Céüse, but more beautiful beech trees. Beginning in Nor-a-line (8b/8b+) you join Blck Flag in the second level after a good rest point that leads you into a 7C boulder with one very far move, followed directly by a 7B boulder with a jump from a tiny crimp. The next relatively easy, juggy meters are among the best moves you can find in the region, but the red point isn't yours until you haven't done a last eliminator move to the anchor. Congrats!

    # vimeo.com/190979068 Uploaded 11K Plays 11 Comments
  2. “Le vent nous portera” - The wind will carry us. Over the highlands of the Altiplano. Through the magic of the dust, the snow, the steppe, volcanos and the ever brighter stars to the most beautiful rocks we never could imagine. All unexplored. And ready to be bolted with just some lonesomes, shining lines. Lines as this one. Latin America’s first 9a+.

    The wind did carry me in many different ways. Together with the hight it made me lighter and filled my veins with haemoglobin – endless stamina. It made me tougher and even more resistant to the omnipresent cold, the minus 20 degrees at night and the five at daytime. And it boosted my specific shape on the mostly only slightly overhanging walls of the volcanic ashes, the tiny holds, the super precise climbing.

    In the end, after having spent four weeks in Socaire in June and then again some days in August, one last heavy storm with up to 140km/h forced me to rest another five days with only one day with softer climbing in between. It forced me to be in the perfect shape. To send it in the first try on August the 14th after less about twenty tries in all. Our six weeks of absence from Socaire (purely above 3500m and with about three kilograms less than before) was the greatest boost in shape I ever have encountered in my climbing life. At the age of 32.

    The route might be among the most aesthetic high end lines in the world. Both regarding the movements and the optical aspects. 30m high on perfect volcano rock with tiny pockets, highly technical, super precise climbing, plenty of different colours and a final 8B crux after more than 50 moves including a beautiful opening boulder and an 8b+ slab, linked to the crux by only a bad rest.

    And though we had only two weeks to go, the wind carried me to even more impressive stuff. But this is another story…

    # vimeo.com/236289545 Uploaded 20.4K Plays 4 Comments
  3. A short film by Andy Wickstrom & Just Go Climb chronicling the historic first female ascent of one of the most iconic and difficult routes in The Red River Gorge, Kentucky.

    Learn more at http://GoldenTicketMovie.com

    This is a personal project by Andy and Jess Wickstrom and Brandon and Gabi Fox, with support from First Ascent Climbing and Fitness, Skratch Labs, Five Ten, and Petzl. Made possible by the amazing cooperation and talents of Michaela Kiersch.

    Aerial Footage:
    Wilkinson Visual: http://www.wilkinsonvisual.com/

    Music Credits:

    "MOUNTAINS" David Szesztay
    Mountains by David Szesztay is licensed under a Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 International License. http://freemusicarchive.org/music/David_Szesztay/

    Interstellar Export by The Insider is licensed under a Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 International License. http://freemusicarchive.org/music/The_Insider/

    "WIND" David Szesztay
    Wind by David Szesztay is licensed under a Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 International License. http://freemusicarchive.org/music/David_Szesztay/

    "FLICKER" Origamibiro
    Flicker by Origamibiro is licensed under a Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License. http://freemusicarchive.org/music/Origamibiro/

    "UH HMMM" Sahy Uhns
    Uh Hmmm... by Sahy Uhns is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License. http://freemusicarchive.org/music/Sahy_Uhns/

    "TIM PREBBLE REMIX" Tim Prebble
    Tim Prebble Remix by Tim Prebble is licensed under a Attribution 3.0 United States License. http://freemusicarchive.org/music/Tim_Prebble/

    "SPRING THAW" The Green Kingdom
    Spring Thaw by The Green Kingdom is licensed under a Attribution 3.0 United States License. http://freemusicarchive.org/music/The_Green_Kingdom/

    "ROLANDS VEGNERS" Ergo Phizmiz & Magita Zalite
    Rolands Vegners by Ergo Phizmiz & Margita Zalite is licensed under a Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 UK: England License. http://freemusicarchive.org/music/ergo_phizmiz_amp_margita_zalite/

    # vimeo.com/199029223 Uploaded 106K Plays 10 Comments
  4. ''Last month, Pete and I were invited on a trip to Norway to lecture at the infamous Ballestein Festival. What was even more exciting than the promised crazy Norwegian climbing festival, was the assurance that we’d have time to make a visit to try Nico Favresse’s Recovery Drink on the Profile Wall in Jøssingfjord. As a route suggested to be perhaps the hardest crack on the planet.'

    # vimeo.com/131204847 Uploaded 34.7K Plays 1 Comment


Alexandre Oliveira

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