Here’s the first video of this winters season of climbing. My partner and I found ourselves near the Canadian border in a little known area called Nabesna. Over the years it’s been a routine early season pilgrimage for partners and me. Sometimes we hit it big, with little known unclimbed objectives finally forming to a size that’s able to sustain weight – like a little garden. But sadly, it’s been kind of slim pickings for the last couple years. There’s usually always something to climb though, albeit a little thinner than normal. This particular climb is a house special; it’s always in early season. Sometimes the lower section is a huge curtain, other times it’s a pencil pillar that in no way can hold weight. This year it was just big enough and wet enough to stay together as we made our way up. Some parts I could swear I could see through. About half way up I did a rookie move and needlessly broke one of my picks. All and all it was a great day and a great climb, enjoy.
This video was taken up in Boulder Creek, AK on a classic route called Taurine Scream. The ice on the face of the pillar was exceptionally bad, but the ice that had filled in between the rock and pillar was good. The first time I had to swing onto the front of the pillar it badly dinner plated but the second time I had to swing out on the top of the pillar I made the mistake of putting my tools much to close together (funny how you do these things once your pumped) and took my first ride down an ice route.
A film celebrating the first ascent of Genesis II, November 6, 1971 by Pat Callis and Brian Leo. This modern ascent by Pat Wolfe using the original gear (with comments by Yvon Chouinard) explores the birth of waterfall ice climbing through the invention of the curved pick.
Executive Producer: Joe Josephson
Producer/Editor: Ari Novak
Director of Photography: Ian Kellett
Premiered on Friday December 9, 2011 as the opening to a two-night retrospective on the history of ice climbing at the 15th Annual Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival.