One of Gardoms and the Peak Districts Last Great Problems!
I'm absolutely made up to have got the first ascent of such a great route. Hired Goons is the long awaited direct finish to the 1984 Johnny Dawes Classic, Charlotte Rampling, which can be found at Gardoms Edge in the Peak District. The direct finish has been a well known project for some time, although it has been top roped clean by 2 or 3 climbers in the past it has never been soloed. It shares the same start as Charlotte Rampling, but where that breaks left towards the arete Hired Goons climbs straight up via a hard move into an undercut, this is followed by a rather serious last move dyno to a hidden pocket just over the lip. Even with pads a fall from the last hard moves would be quite nasty......
I climbed it above 3 pads after practicing it on a rope. I was alone when I climbed it and the conditions weren't great but it all worked out just fine. I've given it a grade of E8 6c, there is no gear, and even with pads it feels a little bit too high to be a boulder problem.
I hope you enjoy the video.