1. QC Lab: Daisy chain dangers

    01:40

    from Black Diamond Equipment Added 197K 88 5

    First, lets be clear: daisy chains are for aid climbing NOT for use as part of your personal anchor system. Don’t know how to properly anchor yourself using the rope? Don't know how to thread sport anchors without using a daisy chain? Get some instruction from a professional guide before you get yourself hurt. Second, and regarding this video, if you incorrectly clip in short to a daisy while aid climbing, it can be potentially bad. Very bad. The thing to remember when clipping in short using a daisy is to use a SECOND carabiner to shorten it up, thus avoiding the potential loading scenario above. To read Black Diamond's full QC Lab report on daisy chain dangers, go to: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/qc-lab-daisy-chain-dangers-en-glbl-en-us

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    • BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi (9b) at Oliana, Spain

      10:58

      from Black Diamond Equipment Added 164K 632 14

      Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi, a massive 9b line at Oliana, Spain in late April. This is likely one of the hardest sport climb in the world. We had Bernardo Gimenez on the scene to document Adam’s efforts and he was fortunate enough to be there for the redpoint. Below is the outstanding video Bernardo edited together, as well as brief recap from Adam. Stunning. Impressive. Inspiring. Absolutely bad ass. Congratulations, Adam. ===================================== Oliana is one of my favorite areas in the whole region of northern Spain. It’s a stunning 50-meter long wall of orange and blue limestone with complex climbing. The wall dries out rather quickly, so I had the opportunity to try out one of projects that Chris bolted called Chaxi Raxi already the first day after the period of rain. It felt very difficult at the beginning, especially the very first crux. I could do every single move, but to link two of them seemed incredibly difficult. The top part seemed more possible—I could link the moves without serious problems except two of them, where I found terrible extra-powerful beta skipping two holds, until Chris told me to try it differently, a much more crimpy and static way. Though crimps are what I excel at and Chris prefers big moves on reasonable holds, our initial betas had been completely the other way around. Getting back to Chaxi Raxi, I stunned myself that I managed to send the easier variation, skipping the first bouldery section via a detour of 7b, which could be around 9a+ on its own right. There was the time now to work a lot on the lower boulder problem and then I might be able send. But that was hard. I didn't go very well, but I steadily kept progressing, and the sixth day I manged to get through the first crux, which could a hard 8B+ boulder problem on its own. I took a rest on the tufa and continued. I made it through the crux sections, but in the end of the last difficult, being 100% confident of success, my left heel slipped. And I did not manage to get through the bottom again that day. I got through it once on my 7th day, I fell a few moves below my highpoint, as I didn't hit the hold right while making dynamic move. I got pretty nervous, since I knew I was able to send it, but I had mere one day left and there are so many sections to make a tiny mistake which might ruin my attempt and also the day, because it is very hard to link the bottom twice in a day. On the first go of my last day, I made it through the first crux somehow, got to the rest and stayed there for a few minutes. This rest is actually enormously useful for the whole route, without the place to shake out it would be undoubtedly 9b+, but it is also a place where you can easily get nervous and think about potential failure. That is what happened to me. The way I continued climbing one can't call efficient at all, but the route was tiny bit below my absolute limit after eight days of work, and despite getting pumped, I got somehow to the anchor and could enjoy the feeling of victory on the last day of the trip yet again. This is probably my hardest route I have ever done. — Adam

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      • VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Adam Ondra on first ascent of L‘étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs (9a+), Ceüse, France

        09:25

        from Black Diamond Equipment Added 133K 417 22

        Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra is unquestionably one of the world’s top rock climbers. But what makes this Czech teenager so unstoppable, what drives him? We sent ace photographer/videographer Bernardo Gimenez (who also put together the Nico Favresse video profile) to meet up with Ondra at the French mega-crag of Ceüse to get the answers... which he did—as well as some sweet footage of Ondra making the first ascent of L‘étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs (9a+). A tasteful blend of climbing footage and interview footage, we feel this video profile does as good a job as anything we’ve seen in showcasing the personality and determination of Adam Ondra. To see a great collection of photos Gimenez took of Ondra in Ceüse, go to: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/video-profile-bd-athlete-adam-ondra-climbing-9a-in-ce%C3%BCse

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        • VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra repeating Chilam Balam (9b) and making the first ascent of La Planta de Shiva (9b) in Spain

          14:28

          from Black Diamond Equipment Added 131K 415 18

          BD athlete Adam Ondra went on something of a tear the first four months of 2011—in case you were living in a dumpster and didn't hear the news. 8c+ onsights, 9b redpoints—sometimes both in the same day. (Check out the videos here and here.) After his northern Spain rampage, he headed down to southern Spain with his father to have a go at Chilam Balam, a wildly overhanging, 80-plus meter long, traversing route that was famously graded 9b+ by its first ascentionist, Bernabe Fernandez. It had never seen a repeat—until Adam showed up and dispatched the stunning line in a handful of tries (check out the rowdy runouts when he starts skipping clips!). Next up was an undone project to the right: a tufa and micro-crimp line that would prove to be more demanding than its well-known neighbor. Adam eventually redpointed the line, naming it La Planta de Shiva and grading it 9b. Two weeks... two of the hardest sport climbs in the world dispatched. When Adam told us he was heading down to try Chilam Balam and La Planta de Shiva we dispatched Bernardo Gimenez to document the action, sure that Adam would—again—pull off a stunning performance. Below is Bernardo amazing video that captures both 9b ascents. Epic, epic EPIC! If this doesn't get you psyched, go back to your dumpster.

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          • BD athlete Adam Ondra onsights Mind Control (8c+), Oliana, Spain

            12:08

            from Black Diamond Equipment Added 116K 369 14

            Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra went on an unstoppable onsight spree this past February and March in northern Spain, managing a stunning five 8c+ routes onsight. Five! Only Ondra’s fellow BD team member Patxi Usobiaga has managed a 5.14c onsight, and that was just one. We sent ace lensman Bernardo Gimenez to document Ondra’s onsighting at the mega-crag of Oliana, and he was fortunate enough to be rigged and ready when Ondra onsighted Mind Control (8c+), a gorgeous, 40-meter tufa/colonette/pocket line that was soaking wet on top. Gimenez had a pulley system set up and was able to capture the onsight in one single, flowing take, producing a truly unique record of one of the hardest sport-climbing onsights ever (it's amazing to watch the mental gears turning as Ondra tries to quickly figure out a way to securely engage the wet colonette at the top). None of Ondra's pterodactyl shrieks of max-effort during this onsight, just cool, calculated climbing that belies the demands of the grade. It truly does look like he's redpointing 7c+ rather than onsighting 8c+. Impressive, indeed.

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            • My Day "Living the Dream"

              02:33

              from renan ozturk Added 109K 1,182 65

              My quintessential day here in Boulder Colorado. For most of the last 6 years I've been a traveling vagabond following my passion for rock climbing. This existence involved sleeping outside in wild places, hitching rides, having very little belongings, a drained bank account and some gourmet dumpster diving for food. I climbed everyday and lived my dream. These days I'm a domesticated man. By most people's standards I'm still living in the ghetto with my 1988 beater car and trailer-like house. Each day I find time to escape to the nearby rock spires and bag a summit. Making this creative short I realized that I still live my dream everyday...! some making of: http://vimeo.com/8323339 some art: http://www.rockmonkeyart.com/Home.html

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              • BD athlete Alex Honnold sending in Indian Creek, Utah

                07:22

                from Black Diamond Equipment Added 109K 376 6

                Humble, reticent and strong as a bull, Black Diamond athlete Alex Honnold is a crack climbing machine. Check out this video of Honnold crushing it in world-famous Indian Creek, Utah on everything from 5.13 footless tip-jam campusing to inverted offwidthing.

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                • VIDEO Part 2: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb

                  04:01

                  from Black Diamond Equipment Added 101K 239 16

                  When is a rock climb too hard, the holds too small, the cracks too thin? Black Diamond athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson pushed those physical and mental boundaries to the limit this past fall when they spent nearly two months attempting to free a line on El Capitan’s southeast face, a 900-meter route (linking up sections of the Dawn Wall and Mescalito) that is likely the hardest big wall free climb in the world, mind-bogglingly stacked with numerous 5.14 pitches. To read Tommy's essay about the effort and see exclusive images from the climb, go to: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/path-of-resistance--tommy-caldwell-and-kevin-jorgeson-attempt-the-first-ascent-of-el-caps-hardest-free-climb

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                  • Indian Creek

                    01:50

                    from sinuhe xavier Added 80.3K 129 8

                    Sinuhe (sin-way) Xavier directed this little film during the early part of November, at the peak of the Indian Creek climbing season. Ace Kvale was kind enough to invite Sinuhe along for one of his still shoots with Marmot athletes, who also happen to be some of the best mountain guides in the world. This is the culmination of those two days in the desert. Marmot www.marmot.com Ace Kvale - Legend www.acekvale.com Angela Hawse - AMGA http://www.alpinist007.com Keith Garvey - IFMGA/AMGA http://www.allmountainadventures.com Christian Santelices - IFMGA/UIAGM www.aerialboundaries.com Director Sinuhe Xavier - AD/HD www.sinuhexavier.com Editor - Transfer - Graphics Andrew Schwartz http://japsltd.com/ Editor Asako Ushio http://www.cosmostreet.com

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                    • VIDEO Part 1: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb

                      05:16

                      from Black Diamond Equipment Added 80K 247 6

                      When is a rock climb too hard, the holds too small, the cracks too thin? Black Diamond athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson pushed those physical and mental boundaries to the limit this past fall when they spent nearly two months attempting to free a line on El Capitan’s southeast face, a 900-meter route (linking up sections of the Dawn Wall and Mescalito) that is likely the hardest big wall free climb in the world, mind-bogglingly stacked with numerous 5.14 pitches. To read Tommy's essay about the effort and see exclusive images from the climb, go to: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/path-of-resistance--tommy-caldwell-and-kevin-jorgeson-attempt-the-first-ascent-of-el-caps-hardest-free-climb

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