Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France. We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his four-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest. Below is Video #1 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam on his first couple of days in the forest as he discovers just how tricky and fickle Font climbing can be. Adam, though, is not one to get pushed around for too long and he quickly comes to form and rails off a series of 8A+ and 8Bs, including Sideways Daze (8B), Fata Morgana Bas (8A+, flash), Satan I Helvéte (8B). Click here to watch Video #2: http://vimeo.com/35329118 Click here to watch Video #3: http://vimeo.com/35330426+ More details
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra is unquestionably one of the world’s top rock climbers. But what makes this Czech teenager so unstoppable, what drives him? We sent ace photographer/videographer Bernardo Gimenez (who also put together the Nico Favresse video profile) to meet up with Ondra at the French mega-crag of Ceüse to get the answers... which he did—as well as some sweet footage of Ondra making the first ascent of L‘étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs (9a+). A tasteful blend of climbing footage and interview footage, we feel this video profile does as good a job as anything we’ve seen in showcasing the personality and determination of Adam Ondra. To see a great collection of photos Gimenez took of Ondra in Ceüse, go to: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/video-profile-bd-athlete-adam-ondra-climbing-9a-in-ce%C3%BCse+ More details
CHANGE MOVIE RELEASE 19. 10. 2014 - info on www.change-movie.com Adam Ondra climbs one of his harder projects in magic Flatanger cave. More info about Adam climbing in Norway on www.change-movie.com More info about dream parts of Norway on www.facebook.com/dreamnorway+ More details
BD athlete Adam Ondra went on something of a tear the first four months of 2011—in case you were living in a dumpster and didn't hear the news. 8c+ onsights, 9b redpoints—sometimes both in the same day. (Check out the videos here and here.) After his northern Spain rampage, he headed down to southern Spain with his father to have a go at Chilam Balam, a wildly overhanging, 80-plus meter long, traversing route that was famously graded 9b+ by its first ascentionist, Bernabe Fernandez. It had never seen a repeat—until Adam showed up and dispatched the stunning line in a handful of tries (check out the rowdy runouts when he starts skipping clips!). Next up was an undone project to the right: a tufa and micro-crimp line that would prove to be more demanding than its well-known neighbor. Adam eventually redpointed the line, naming it La Planta de Shiva and grading it 9b. Two weeks... two of the hardest sport climbs in the world dispatched. When Adam told us he was heading down to try Chilam Balam and La Planta de Shiva we dispatched Bernardo Gimenez to document the action, sure that Adam would—again—pull off a stunning performance. Below is Bernardo amazing video that captures both 9b ascents. Epic, epic EPIC! If this doesn't get you psyched, go back to your dumpster.+ More details
Dani, Magnus and I sessioned on this incredible route for two days, competing for 15,000 norwegian kroner for the first ascent. Dani and Magnus obviously climbed the route with style and grace, while I climbed with wild desperation... but it worked. I don't think I've ever topped out a route after becoming so terminally pumped on it.+ More details
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France. We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam. Here is Video #3 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and this one capture‘s Adam's flash of Gekko Assis (8B+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest. If you missed Video #1, watch it here: http://vimeo.com/35171521 If you missed Video #2, watch it here: http://vimeo.com/35329118 Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #3: "After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La pierre philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font. One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions). The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment. Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else. The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year. Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited."+ More details
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra traveled to Kentucky's Red River Gorge in late October and 10 days later he had blazed through the area's hardest routes, including onsighting two of the Red's hardest, Pure Imagination and The Golden Ticket, in the same day. Both routes were originally rated 5.14d, but Ondra, after onsighting them within an hour of each other, suggested they be downrated to 5.14c. (Yes, the ease of onsighting in the Red is a much discussed topic, but nevertheless onsighting two 5.14c's in the same day is a stunning achievement.) Ben Spannuth was on the scene for Ondra's onsight of The Golden Ticket and got the camera rolling in time to capture the action. Here is the uncut footage. Amazing to see the conviction Ondra has through every sequence—no stalling, no apprehension about sequences, no anxiety, no slip ups. Aspiring onsight climbers take note: this is how you do it. Boom. Boom. Boom. Clip the chains.+ More details
A new short video featuring Adam Ondra´ s old climbs of three 9a - 9a+ routes, which were initially filmed for the movie The Wizard´s Apprentice, but did not make it into the final version of the movie. So they are really old now, in many aspecst, including the old-school way of filming. Despite that, two of them are still the hardest routes of Adam´s home climbing area and of the whole Czech Republic. And it would be amazing, if somebody would finally try them... :-) More about The Wizard´s Apprentice here: WWW.ADAMONDRAFILM.COM/EN This video consists of following routes: Xaxid Hostel 9a/+ - Mišja Peč / Osp / Slovenia Tanec Kuřátek 9a - Jáchymka cave / Moravia Carst / Czech republic Perlorodka 9a+ - Lidomorna sector / Holštejn crag / Moravian Cars / Czech Republic Well, old stuff goes through this video away to create space for for somethig new, hopefully much better. But what? We are currently working on a new and much more challenging film with Adam Ondra called Change. Still a lot of work and traveling ahead of us, but you can already take a look at many photos, videos and texts on the new web-page about the movie. WWW.CHANGE-MOVIE.COM New free 20 min long "Behing the scenes" movie about CHANGE movie project coming in the first half on May, follow the web-page!+ More details
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi, a massive 9b line at Oliana, Spain in late April. This is likely one of the hardest sport climb in the world. We had Bernardo Gimenez on the scene to document Adam’s efforts and he was fortunate enough to be there for the redpoint. Below is the outstanding video Bernardo edited together, as well as brief recap from Adam. Stunning. Impressive. Inspiring. Absolutely bad ass. Congratulations, Adam. ===================================== Oliana is one of my favorite areas in the whole region of northern Spain. It’s a stunning 50-meter long wall of orange and blue limestone with complex climbing. The wall dries out rather quickly, so I had the opportunity to try out one of projects that Chris bolted called Chaxi Raxi already the first day after the period of rain. It felt very difficult at the beginning, especially the very first crux. I could do every single move, but to link two of them seemed incredibly difficult. The top part seemed more possible—I could link the moves without serious problems except two of them, where I found terrible extra-powerful beta skipping two holds, until Chris told me to try it differently, a much more crimpy and static way. Though crimps are what I excel at and Chris prefers big moves on reasonable holds, our initial betas had been completely the other way around. Getting back to Chaxi Raxi, I stunned myself that I managed to send the easier variation, skipping the first bouldery section via a detour of 7b, which could be around 9a+ on its own right. There was the time now to work a lot on the lower boulder problem and then I might be able send. But that was hard. I didn't go very well, but I steadily kept progressing, and the sixth day I manged to get through the first crux, which could a hard 8B+ boulder problem on its own. I took a rest on the tufa and continued. I made it through the crux sections, but in the end of the last difficult, being 100% confident of success, my left heel slipped. And I did not manage to get through the bottom again that day. I got through it once on my 7th day, I fell a few moves below my highpoint, as I didn't hit the hold right while making dynamic move. I got pretty nervous, since I knew I was able to send it, but I had mere one day left and there are so many sections to make a tiny mistake which might ruin my attempt and also the day, because it is very hard to link the bottom twice in a day. On the first go of my last day, I made it through the first crux somehow, got to the rest and stayed there for a few minutes. This rest is actually enormously useful for the whole route, without the place to shake out it would be undoubtedly 9b+, but it is also a place where you can easily get nervous and think about potential failure. That is what happened to me. The way I continued climbing one can't call efficient at all, but the route was tiny bit below my absolute limit after eight days of work, and despite getting pumped, I got somehow to the anchor and could enjoy the feeling of victory on the last day of the trip yet again. This is probably my hardest route I have ever done. — Adam+ More details
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra went on an unstoppable onsight spree this past February and March in northern Spain, managing a stunning five 8c+ routes onsight. Five! Only Ondra’s fellow BD team member Patxi Usobiaga has managed a 5.14c onsight, and that was just one. We sent ace lensman Bernardo Gimenez to document Ondra’s onsighting at the mega-crag of Oliana, and he was fortunate enough to be rigged and ready when Ondra onsighted Mind Control (8c+), a gorgeous, 40-meter tufa/colonette/pocket line that was soaking wet on top. Gimenez had a pulley system set up and was able to capture the onsight in one single, flowing take, producing a truly unique record of one of the hardest sport-climbing onsights ever (it's amazing to watch the mental gears turning as Ondra tries to quickly figure out a way to securely engage the wet colonette at the top). None of Ondra's pterodactyl shrieks of max-effort during this onsight, just cool, calculated climbing that belies the demands of the grade. It truly does look like he's redpointing 7c+ rather than onsighting 8c+. Impressive, indeed.+ More details
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