1. Alizée Dufraisse: La Reina Mora 8c+/9a (First Female Ascent)

    04:58

    from Prana Living / Added

    Alizée Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well! This was of course the first female ascent. There has, after all, not been that many female ascents at this level. So few in fact that you can count the number of women who have climbed anything harder than 8c+ on one hand, even if you were to have lost a digit (or maybe even two). La Reina Mora was originally given 8c/+ by Ramon Julian Puigblanque but has later been upgraded first by Nico Favresse who suggested 8c+ and then by Dani Andrada who thought it was at least 8c+/9a, maybe even 9a. ~UKClimbing.com

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    • La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada

      19:05

      from Vast Motion Pictures / Added

      97.2K Plays / / 32 Comments

      "When I was asked to make a video about Dani Andrada, at first I was super psyched and was looking forward to shooting it. Then, I realized that I had never filmed sport climbing, or even taken my camera on a rope (except to film a highball) and that I would not have time to try even once before going there. So I went to Catalunya not knowing what to except and quite nervous about screwing up while on the rope... Now that I am back, I only want to try shooting routes again! If you are looking for a pure action video, this is not what this is. This is more of a 'video illustrated interview'. If you want to know more about Dani and his motivations, you are at the right place :-) Dani has a strong reputation and all I can say is that he is as motivated as you would expect him to be. He is either climbing or bolting, or doing both in a day. He just never stops. And on top of that he is a genuine good person spending most of his non climbing time rebolting older routes to keep Siurana safe. Weather was not kind with us, having fog, rain and very strong winds but it gave us some very intense tries in Siurana (sorry for the shakiness in La Rambla but I could not fight such wind...). And like Dani says, if you can do it in bad conditions, you will feel stronger when conditions get better..." - Haroun Souirji Music licensed from WithEtiquette.com and MelloMusicGroup.com PS: the video was shot and edited in a very wide cinema aspect ratio. This is a test to see how well it could fit climbing. I couldn't stress enough that it looks best on a real TV so if you have a nice, big flat screen at home, download the movie (link on the right) and watch it there! -------- For the filmmakers out there. Equipment used: Cameras // Canon 7D, 60D, 550D Lenses // Canon TS-E 24mm L, Canon Fish Eye 8-15 L, Canon 24-105 L, Canon 50mm 1.4, Tokina 11-16 2.8, Sigma 30mm 1.4, Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro, maybe forgot one Stabilization and more // Glidecam HD-2000 steadycam, RedRockMicro DSLR shoulder rig, Kessler Philip Bloom Pocket Dolly Audio // Zoom H4N field recorder, Rode shotgun mic, Mitra 3D Mic Pro, Sennheiser EW 100-ENG G2 wireless kit Equipment for future videos will be detailed in posts on my website! (when it's done...)

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