Learned to surf in ... well you will laugh ... Texas. USA ... back in 1980 until around 1992. Then I moved to La Jolla, Ca and surfed Wind n Sea and spots like Scripps pier, Blacks, Turtles, Pacific Beach etc ....
Have only surfed Pipeline once back in the old days. I haven't had the money to go back but it was one of the best surfing experiences of my life even though the waves were only just overhead.
I'm almost to old to surf now and just long board it. So next time you see one of us OLD guys out there on the longboard remember we were once like the kids trying to shred it up. I learned along the way that it's not about shredding up a wave but being one with it and being fluid in motion.
good tides and hope you all enjoy surfing as much as I have my whole life.
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